No matter when you start, it is important that you do not stop after starting. No matter when you end, it is more important that you do not regret after ended.
Friday, April 13, 2012
Apple Tree
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Blue Ice Warthog 38L
For those not familar with the smaller,original version of the Blue Ice Warthog, the 26L pack take a look here:
http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//07/blue-ice-new-warthog-alpine-pack.html
12Ls bigger to start with over the 26L Warthog. Probably more realistic for most of us in North America. Same basicvolumethat I have been using for a long time most everywhere here, Canada and in the Alps.It is an aquired taste/size. All the same features as the original.
Same 18" back length and 3" spread at the top of the should straps. Weight is 910g or 2# even. Weight listed on the Blue Ice web site is 890g.But stripped of straps and the removable waist belt it would be lighter than the 780g. Material is 500 x *50 denier Cordura. And a nice mellow red in color. YKK zippers and a double fabric bottom.

Nice, simple and useful alpine pack. I really like it.
http://www.blueice.com/en/home/
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
Have Tractor! Will Dig!
Monday, April 9, 2012
The RAB Xenon jacket

Because I like and use the Atom LT so much and the Mtn Hardware Compressor before it I am always on the look out for first rate lightly insulated (60g) climbing jackets.
The Xenon first came to my attention and a few of my pals a couple of seasons ago. I was pretty stoked...right up till I had a chance to try one on and found the side pockets had no zippers. What was RAB thinking on that one? I actually discussed that with one of the RAB reps earlier this fall. I just figured someone made a huge mistake on that order to China.
But nope no zippers was intentional first time around to save weight. Clearly stopped me and a couple of my friends from buying the Xenon though.
This year the Xenon does have zippers on the pockets, thankfully. Makes them so they don't fill up with snow and you can actually store something in them with no worry of loosing what ever that happens to be.
The RAB party line:
"The Xenon Jacket is a super lightweight synthetic insulated jacket with a very light outer fabric.
The Xenon Synthetic insulated jacket is the culmination of several years hard work with fabric and synthetic insulation suppliers. We have taken Primaloft® synthetic fill and wrapped it up in the lightest Pertex® Quantum® GL 10 Denier fabric that is currently available.
You get a full length garment with a full length YKK zip, 2 hand warmer pockets and a chest pocket and all for just 340g/12oz!!! The whole jacket packs into its own chest pocket and is ideal as a superlight belay or over layer jacket, to be carried in a pack or clipped to a harness.
Ideal for Alpine Climbing, Mountain Marathon,Mountain Walking, Trek and travel and any fast and light activities. What more could you want?"
Sizes: S - XXL
Weight: 330g / 12oz
◦Pertex® Quantum® GL 10D ultra light rip stop nylon outer and lining
◦Light 60g Primaloft® One in body, sleeves and hood
◦Lycra bound hood fits snugly under a helmet.
◦1-way YKK front zip with internal insulated zip baffle and chin guard
◦2 YKK zipped hand warmer pockets and 1 YKK zipped chest pocket
◦Double exit hem drawcord
◦Packs away into chest pocket
◦Short cut
I am obviously not doing any climbing right now. But I am using the Xenon almost every day. I really like this jacket. One of my projects has been to figure out where in my climbing clothing system I can use this one.
It would be a LOT easier if the hood fit over a helmet. It doesn't. Typically that would "kill" any climbing jacket for my ow use. But the new Xenon(with pocket zips) is good enough that I have been looking for places to use this jacket. Here are the reasons I want to use this jacket. First off the materials used, Primaloft One and Pertex® Quantum® make it a lwt package that is hard to ignore. The nice detailing,zipper baffle, corner zipper reinforcements,andthe fleecechin guard you notice. Even the hood has a slick little retaining strap for when it is not in use. The XL size is more like a comfy US large than a XL and it actually fits me very well after the chemo diet. It might be the only jacket in the house that does come to think about it!
If I am not using the hood I don' want it full of snow...the hood retainer strap is a nice detail.
The Xenon tucked into it's own chest pocket with a loop for clipping it to your harness. My XL (call it a roomy US large) weighs in at full 11.8OZ! For once the "stuff" pocket is over size for the jacket and easily goes into this one. The jacket would gointo a smaller (more durable)stuff sack if the bulk is a concern on the harness. Though you are on your own for that.
I may not get the winter use I had planned for the Xenon without a hood that will go over my helmet. But this will certainly be the jacket I throw in the pack for the rest of the year as required. Yep, at under 12oz. I like it, a lot. Really, who actually gives an honest garment weight these days..BRAVO, on that oneRAB!
I like it enough that if they made the hoodbig enough togo over a helmet and kept the zippers onthe side pockets I'd buy one of those too :) After all how much weight is a bigger hood really going to add?
Here is a buying tip....if you find this jacket on sale via the Internet...make sure the version you are getting has the side pocketzips if you require them.
Thursday, April 5, 2012
Arches National Park :: A Few More Views
These pictures were taken on the morning of May 17th on my final drive-through of Arches National Park. It was another beautiful day!









Tuesday, April 3, 2012
"THE" belay jacket?

Eddie Bauer BC Micro Therm Down Parka, Canadian Rockies
Down insulation witha water proof shell in really cold temps. Perfect!
The guysI have climbed with a long time have seldom seen me in a belay jacket. And until recently (the last decade) you wouldn't find one in my pack generally. The first time I heard of a "belay specific" jacket was in Twight's "EXTREMEALPINISM". Oh sure I carried a big down parka on occasion but I can could easily count the times I used one actually climbingon one hand.
The majority of time I used those jackets to sleep in or add extra insulation to my sleeping bag by draping it over the top of me in the tent. Climb in them...not a chance. Too warm. Belay in them? On and off again? In and out of the pack? Going to have to be pretty cold for me to bother...it just takestoo much time.

Arcteryx Atom Hoody, Feb.,Chamonix, France, 100g of Coreloft
I likely have a picture of every time I have ever donned a insulatedjacket to climb in. All but one are recent. And all were in pretty cold (-15C or better). And funny enough none of those jackets are what I would consider even mid weights. More like "hooded light weights." Not having a bigger jacket simply means you have to keep moving to stay warm. You end up carrying less that way. My partners and I have generally been ableto do that even in the short days mid winterof Dec. and Jan.

Mt. Snoqualmie, Dec.,WA Cascades, 100g of Primaloft 1

Multiple layers, 100g Primaloft One, MH CompressorHoody with a
Arcteryx Atom LT mid layer, belaying @ -20C in Jan.
My point to all of this is, you don't need much.
What you do need is simple. Really good insulation first. Primaloft 1 is a good place to start if you like synthetics. Which I do. Makes no sense to me to put on a down jacket when you are soaking wet from sweat and expect the downto stay dry. I save down for the really cold and dry days. The ones where I don't planon sweating out my base layers. I will work at it to make sure I do not and stay dry.
Don't believe the sales pitchthat Primaloft Eco is a great buy. It isn't as efficient an insulator as Primaloft 1 and it a lot less money for the manufacturer. Arcteryx's Coreloft or soem of their own insulations are excellentas are a number of other brand specific insulation's. Again check out the details on the insulation you might be surprised.
Any combo of 60g to 100g insulation should do the trick for usable warmth. Full 100g through out or a body of 100g and a hood and sleeves of 60 is nice as well. Either way check out the insulation combos. Some really smart designs out there.
A decent hood that easily covers your choice in helmets and a matching collar that zips up around your neck to protect you when you are sealed in. Always nice to have a soft chin guard there as well.
Pockets? I like two hand warmers with zips but no fu-fu please just a nylon liner. Outside chest pocket or pockets and internal pockets big enough to dry gloves and ideally a smaller one with a zip closure for the small stuff is always nice.
A simple elastic cuff is what I prefer or a more complicated Velcro closure will work on the wrists.
Outer shell material? Nice if it is durable, breathable and water proof. And a fit that will allow you to keep climbing while the jacketgoes over everything you have on. Throw in a two way front zipperto work around the harness.
RAB Generator Alpine jacket punches most all ofthose tickets as a LWT jacket.

- 30D triple rip stop Pertex® Endurance outer
- Pertex® Quantum 20D rip stop lining
- Warm 100g Primaloft® One in body
- Light 60g Primaloft® One in arms and hood
Need a bit more warmth @ a similar weight? The BC Micro Therm does a great job as well with down insulation. Jackets that will do everything I have listed here are hard to find. Harder yet inthe 100g insulation weightthat I think are themost usefulforactual "climbing jackets". These will make a decent belay jacketthat won't have to come out and go back into the pack at ever stance.
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