Santa Hat

Sonny agreed to pose in the Santa Hat as did all the other horses and ponies and even our cat Murphy who can be see at the end of this blog'

Gunks Routes: Gaston (5.8-)

(Photo: Past the pro-less start on Gaston (5.8-).)




Maryana and I were looking for something new to do on a beautiful Saturday in April, and it seemed like if we wanted something out of the ordinaryour timing couldn't be better, since we might not have any choice in the matter.We arrived at the West Trapps lot in the morning to find it was already nearly full, even though the temperature was still in the low 40's.As we walked down the carriage road it seemed like all theusual suspect climbswere occupied. It was the perfectoccasion for usto jump on something unpopular, something obscure.




When wepassed the connector trail I looked up at the cliff and saw theexpected sights. Climbers were on Arch (5.5). Climbers were on Strictly From Nowhere (5.7). But as usual no one was on the no-star climbs nearby: Calisthenic (5.7), Gorilla My Dreams (5.7), or Gaston (5.8-). And no one was on Splashtic (5.10a), a climb which gets a star from Dick Williams but which seems always unoccupied because the first pitch is 5.10 and the second is 5.9 R.




I was intrigued by Splashtic, because it seemed from the description that the crux is really one move, early in the first pitch. Looking it over on Saturday, I thought it looked doable and protectable. Maybe this was a good 5.10 candidate for me? I wasn't interested in the R-rated second pitch (although it sure looks exciting...) but I figured we coulddescend from the threaded anchor atop pitch one or continue with the upper pitches of another climb.




I was also interested in Gaston, because it has a reputation for being underappreciated and somewhat tricky for its 5.8- grade. I'd heard the upper pitches, which are just 5.5, were also good.




Maryana thought Gaston was a better choice for a warm-up than Splashtic so we were set.




Dick's guidebook describes the first pitch as going up a ramp and then moving right past a bulge. Then thin climbing left past two pins was supposed to be the crux.




For me the crux of pitch one was the lack of pro low on the pitch. There is nothing for at least fifteen feet or more. I went up the easy ramp and then expected to find something. But I didn't.




Then another move up and left onto a ledge. Still pretty easy climbing, but I was still lookingin vain forsome placements.




Finally I found gear, but it was to the left of the route. Theclimbingclearly went to the right through the bulge. I had two pieces but they were off-line.




After trying out a couple of different approaches I committed to the surprisingly thin holds and got through the bulge.




Then I think I got another piece, something micro, before moving up and left to an angle piton. (Dick mentions two pins but I guess one has since disappeared.) I don't remember these supposed crux face movesas tricky. There was nothing as thin as the move at the bolt on Wonderland (5.8-), for instance. All I really rememberwas wishingI had more confidence in the gear.But once I clipped the pin it seemed everything would be okay. The rest of the way I felt both the climbing and the gear were casual enough.




At the end ofthe pitchI felt like in retrospect there was JUST enough pro. And the climbing was nice; it was clean andinteresting. Maryana pointed out that I'd missed the key placement. There is a place right below the bulge where a runner could be threaded. You can see it in the above photo over to the right of where I have a sling connected to the blue rope. I had pro at the same height but off to the left. It would have been better-- I would have felt better-- if I'd found this placement.









(Photo: Maryana at the final overhangs on the 5.5 pitch two of Gaston.)




The next surprise on Gaston was that the threaded anchor atop pitch one was gone. I built a gear anchor and brought Maryana up. We had been thinking we'd rap after pitch one and go do something else, but nowwe wereforced to do at least one more pitch.




Maryana led pitch two and itturned out to bevery nice. We both enjoyed it. While pitch one features interesting face climbing, pitch two is moretypical Gunks terrain, with good features in a huge corner systemand plentiful horizontals, leading up and left to some final overhangs with jugs.




One we reached the GT Ledge we had an easy walk over to the bolted rappel route to our left. But I thought it was a waste not to finish the climb. We'd come this far. Would we ever bother to come to this spot again? Might as well do pitch three. It looked like a short romp up to a roof. Why not do it?









(Photo: Most of the way through the 5.5 pitch three of Gaston.)




I led the pitch in about five minutes. I'm glad we did it. It reminds me of the top pitch of Minty. It is a little harder and the move out to the roof is a bit more exposed. But it is very similar, featuring a nice corner and then another juggy overhang. Good fun.




I think Gaston is definitely underrated at no stars. It has a lot of quality climbing. Each pitch is worthwhile. The rock is good. It is clean. It should have at least a star. I think if the two 5.5 pitches were not guarded by the tricky pitch one this climb would beextremelypopular with new leaders.




As it is it should be more popular with moderate leadersof all levels of experience.

Hot, Hot, Hot

The temps are soaring in Washington, and gaining altitude on Mt Rainier is one way to avoid the heat. The last two weeks of July and the first two weeks of August historically mark the highest success rates and most reliable weather for the peak. If you're climbing, leave early, as the freezing level is hovering around 15,000 feet.

Recent mountain achievements include Jason Edwards personal climbing benchmark. Jason successfully made his 300th summit climb of Mt. Rainier on July 12th. Jason joins an elit clan of guides (there are only 6) who have more than 300 summits. The current summit record is held by George Dunn, who has over 480 successful ascents.

In other news, we've updated the route condition reports for the Kautz, DC, and K Spire to name a few. Please keep the updates coming.

Rainy Day at Minnehaha Falls

Rainy Day at Minnehaha Falls, originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.

I got this shot back in June when I was in Minnesota. This waterfall was gushing, more than I'd ever seen.

Anyone have some good waterfalls nearby?

Little Billy

My grandmother's brother, William Hale Brubaker, 2 years old, February 1907.

"Low Pressing" Systems

Late last week and early this week (with some respite on Sunday) low pressure systems are moving through the Northwest. The mountain typically has some "Jun-uary" weather roll through in the early part of the summer season. The last low pressure system came through with a high freezing level and lots of moisture. There was rain up to 11,000 feet. Whew. The cloud deck has lowered to around 9000 feet the last couple days restoring the typical upper-mountain snow pack. Guide companies, independent parties, and climbing rangers have all been out making snow pack assessments. Be sure to get familiar with the conditions yourself - don't get sucked into the "herd" mentality.



On another note, the solstice is coming up! There is lots of daylight
for climbers to complete their ascents. Lower freezing levels also make
later ascents more practical. New snow pasted on the mountain has made it quite the spectacular sight. Don't forget your cameras! See you up here soon.

Mountain Photography

When I was a kid Gaston Rebuffat's photos (and writing) inspired me and literally drove me to explore the mountains.






















I've grown up but never loss the thrill ofseeingRebuffat'swork. Great mountain photography is like porn I suppose hard to define but you know it when you see it.




I am a huge fan of Chamonix based photographer and climber, Jonathan Griffith's work. How could a climber not be? Jon, shares his photos and trip reports on his various web sites. The content is good enough to get me back to Chamonix after being absent several decades.




http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions




And now he offering an amazing opportunity with aAlpine Photography Course.




http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/6143764-chamonix-photography-course




































Just a big thumbs up for the guys who make the effort to document and share our way of life.

Some great STOKE!